The fell-going philosophy: clean, dry, reproof, repeat

There is a particular joy in a long day on the fells: the squelch of peat, the rattle of gritstone underfoot, the sudden view that opens up after a steep pull. But that joy comes at a cost. Mud, heather, rain, and the abrasive scrape of rock all take their toll on your walking gear. The good news is that most outdoor kit is designed to be looked after. A little routine care after each outing — and a slightly deeper session once or twice a year — will keep your boots, waterproofs, and rucksack going for many more seasons. It also saves money and keeps gear out of landfill, which matters when you love the hills.

Boots: mud is the enemy, but heat is worse

Boots are your most important piece of kit. Treat them well and they will treat your feet well on long, rough days. The key is to clean them before mud dries hard, and to dry them gently.

• Clean mud while it is still damp. Use a soft brush or a cloth with lukewarm water. Pay attention to the welt — the join between upper and sole — where grit and peat gather and slowly grind away at the stitching.
• Remove laces and insoles. Wash them separately in lukewarm water, and let them air dry completely. This stops damp and odour building up inside the boot.
• Dry slowly, never on a radiator. Direct heat cracks leather, warps synthetic uppers, and melts glue. Stuff boots with newspaper or a dry cloth, change it when it becomes damp, and leave them in a cool, airy spot. A fan helps.
• Reproof leather with wax or cream. Once clean and dry, work a small amount of neutral wax or leather cream into the upper with your fingers or a cloth. Pay extra attention to flex points and the toe box. Full-grain leather can take a wax-based product; nubuck and suede prefer a spray.
• For fabric boots, use a cleaner and spray. After cleaning, apply a proprietary reproofing spray or sponge-on treatment. Focus on the fabric panels, not the leather, and let it cure overnight.

Waterproofs: washing, reproofing, and the tumble-dry trick

Waterproof jackets and trousers are not ruined by washing. In fact, dirt and body oils clog the fabric and stop it breathing. What kills waterproofs is the wrong kind of washing, or never washing them at all. The durable water repellent (DWR) finish eventually wears off, and that is when the fabric starts to wet out and feel clammy.

• Wash with a technical cleaner. Use a dedicated pure soap or technical wash, not normal detergent. Follow the label. Zip up all zips, close flaps, and loosen any cord locks.
• Never use fabric conditioner. It leaves a coating that destroys breathability and water repellency. Also avoid biological powders and bleach.
• Reproof when water stops beading. If the surface of your jacket soaks up water like a sponge, it is time to reproof. Use a spray-on or wash-in product designed for your fabric. Spray-on is better for jackets with a mix of materials; wash-in is fine for simple shells.
• Reactivate the DWR with heat. Many waterproofs benefit from a low tumble dry or a cool iron through a cloth. Always check the care label first. The heat helps the DWR spread evenly and bond to the fabric.

Seams, zips, and the small repairs that save big money

Seams and zips are the weak points of any waterproof. A few minutes with a torch and a repair kit can save you from a soaked mid-layer on a windy ridge.

• Inspect seam tape. Hold the garment up to a window or use a torch. Look for lifting, cracking, or peeling tape, especially around shoulders, hood, and pockets.
• Treat peeling tape with a liquid seam sealant. A small tube of seam sealant can re-stick loose tape or seal a leaking stitch. Clean the area with alcohol first, apply thinly, and let it cure for at least 12 hours.
• Patch small holes. A tear in a waterproof or down jacket can be fixed with a self-adhesive patch or a dab of seam sealant. For down, use a patch that stops feathers escaping. Round the corners of any patch to stop it peeling off.
• Clean zips with a toothbrush. Grit and salt kill zips. Brush them clean, then apply a little silicone lubricant or wax. Never use oil, which attracts dirt. Work the zip back and forth to spread the lubricant.

Rucksacks, poles, and the odds and ends

Your rucksack carries everything, so it deserves a clean now and then. Trekking poles take a beating on rocky descents, and small items like head torches and water bottles are easy to neglect.

• Rucksacks: Empty all pockets, shake out crumbs and grit, then sponge the fabric with lukewarm water and a little mild soap. Rinse with a damp cloth. Do not machine wash or tumble dry. Air dry in the shade. Reproof zips with silicone and check buckles and straps for fraying.
• Trekking poles: Wipe down the shafts, especially the joints. Extend and clean the locking mechanisms, then dry thoroughly. A little silicone spray on the locks keeps them working smoothly. Replace worn tips and missing baskets before they disappear into a bog.
• Head torches and electronics: Remove batteries if you will not use them for a while. Clean contacts with a pencil eraser or a cloth. Check charging cables for damage. A dead head torch on a dark descent is a miserable way to end a walk.

A seasonal kit MOT and clever storage

Twice a year — perhaps at the start of spring and again in late autumn — give your whole kit a proper MOT. Lay everything out, check seams, soles, zips, buckles, and straps. Make a small repair pile and deal with it before the next big day out. Keep a repair kit in your cupboard: seam sealant, patches, a spare buckle, silicone lubricant, a needle and strong thread, and a small brush.

Store gear clean and dry, loosely packed, in a cool, dark place. Hang waterproofs on a wide hanger rather than cramming them into a stuff sack. Leave boots unlaced and upright, not squashed under a pile of rucksacks. Avoid damp sheds and hot lofts. If you look after your kit, it will look after you — through bog, boulder, and horizontal rain — for many more miles on the fells.